Après Barcelone et Venise, j’avais envie de partager avec vous les jolies découvertes culinaires que j’ai pu faire lors de notre semaine berlinoise, début août ! Ce qui est vraiment super à Berlin, c’est que – comme Londres – c’est une ville où le végétarisme et le véganisme sont (presque) la norme. La grande majorité des restaurants, même ceux qui peuvent sembler très traditionnels, proposent des plats végétariens et vegan. Vous ne devriez donc avoir aucun mal à trouver votre bonheur mais… je vous livre quand même mes coups de cœur, en espérant qu’ils deviennent les vôtres 😊
# Vous êtes du côté de Mitte ?
L’adorable Café 93 (prononcez : Neun Drei) vous propose des salades (sur place ou à emporter – celle que nous avons goûtée, des pâtes au pesto de pistache, étaient très bonnes !) et – surtout – de superbes gâteaux ! Je vous laisse vous faire votre propre opinion avec les photos… Et je vous invite à découvrir leur page Instagram qui est un bonheur pour les yeux…
Certains desserts sont vegan. Il est également possible de choisir parmi plusieurs laits végétaux pour les boissons. Le matcha latte est très bon !
Le spot idéal si vous avez prévu de vous rendre au Berliner Dom, sur l’Île aux Musées ou au musée de la DDR.
Café 93
Monbijoupl. 2 / 10178 Berlin
https://www.instagram.com/cafeneundrei
Nous avons découvert la pizzéria St Bess sur les (très bons !) conseils de notre hôtesse AirBnB, car elle se trouvait à proximité de notre logement, au nord de Mitte (U9 Ahmrumer St.). L’attente y a été longue, très longue, mais les pizzas – toutes végétariennes ou vegan – en valaient vraiment le coup ! J’ai choisi la Rumi (12€), à base de fromage de chèvre et de nectarines fraiches : un délice ♥ Mon mari a pris la Hildegard (12€), version toute personnelle d’une 4 fromages, qui était très bonne aussi. Les pizzas sont bien relevées, avec des herbes fraiches et des épices fraichement moulues et la pâte est juste divine ! J’avoue, je serais bien revenue tous les soirs… D’autant plus qu’une autre pizza qui me faisait de l’œil s’appellait « Vier Hexen » – Quatre Sorcières – et le concept me plaisait bien haha !
St Bess
Sprengel St. 41 / 13353 Berlin
https://st-bess.business.site
Le Green Tea Café Mamecha, je l’ai découvert « virtuellement » le jour de notre arrivée, à la recherche d’un matcha latte (oui, vous allez découvrir au fil de cet article que j’ai une légère addiction au matcha, hem…). Finalement, nous y sommes allés pour déjeuner quand j’ai vu qu’ils proposaient aussi des bento, curry & autres délices japonais. Nous avons choisi le curry végétarien, qui était très bon, j’ai également pris un matcha latte, bien sûr.
Mais LE truc à goûter, si vous aimez le matcha, c’est leur cheese-cake au matcha. Il est juste parfait ♥ Ferme mais fondant, sucré juste ce qu’il faut… Parfait, je vous dis ! L’une de mes plus belles découvertes culinaires du voyage.
Green Tea Café Mamecha
Mulackstr.33 / 10119 Berlin
https://www.mamecha.com
Bon, c’est bien joli tout ça, vous allez me dire, mais ce n’est pas typisch deutch. Certes. Ce qui est über typisch deutsch, par contre, c’est le Currywurst : un plat composé d’une saucisse généralement frite, coupée en rondelles, arrosée de ketchup et de curry en poudre, servi avec des frites. Le roi de la street-food berlinoise ! Alors le dernier soir, au sortir de la glaçante Topographie des Terrors et sur le chemin du Reichstag, à deux pas de Checkpoint Charlie, nous avons testé la Currywurst. Version traditionnelle pour mon mari et version vegan pour moi. Et oui, même le plat le plus typique et carné a sa version vegan ! On ne va pas se mentir, ce n’est pas de la grande gastronomie, mais ça tient au corps, ce n’est pas très cher, les frites sont très bonnes… Alors ne boudons notre plaisir. La saucisse vegan, à base de seitan, est grillée sur une plaque de cuisson à part. Comptez 3€ pour la Currywurst seule et 7,90€ pour le menu avec des frites et une boisson (soft ou bière Berliner Kindl).
Sans rapport avec ce restaurant, il existe une Berliner Kindl à la rhubarbe et c’est top ♥ D’ailleurs, la rhubarbe est là-bas un parfum classique pour les limonades et autres boissons. Ce qui a fait mon bonheur, car c’est un fruit que j’adore et qui est peu utilisé en France. Donc si vous voyez des bouteilles remplies d’une boisson rose un peu partout sur mes photos, il y a 99% de chance que ce soit de la limonade à la rhubarbe… 😊
Curry at the Wall
Zimmerst. 97 / 10117 Berlin
https://www.curry-at-the-wall-berlin-mitte.com
Au nord de Mitte, dans l’arrondissement de Pankow, une adresse découverte grâce à l’application Happy Cow (qui m’a été d’une grande aide au Japon, mais n’est pas indispensable à Berlin, où – comme je vous l’ai dit – il est très facile de trouver des plats végétariens / vegan), sur laquelle j’ai craquée car j’adore la cuisine coréenne, mais sorti du bibimbap, elle se décline rarement en version végétarienne. Or, ici toutes les spécialités sont vegan ! J’ai pris un bol de ramyeon (l’équivalent coréen des ramen), le Red Bowl, délicieux, bien relevé grâce au kimchi, avec d’étonnantes petites boules de tofu frites, et mon mari des kimbap.
Les cocktails sont très sympas et pas très chers. Les prix sont d’ailleurs globalement très raisonnables, vu la qualité et la quantité. Une excellente adresse !
Feel Seoul Good – Pankow
Husemannstr. 2 / 10435 Berlin
https://www.instagram.com/feelseoulgood_berlin
# Un dimanche à Mauerpark…
Un dimanche… ou pas ! Mais si vous voulez profiter de l’ambiance festive du parc et du marché aux puces, c’est le dimanche que ça se passe 😊 Si vous n’aimez pas la foule, choisissez un autre jour…
Cette adresse aussi, je l’ai trouvée avec Happy Cow et quand j’ai découvert qu’ils faisaient des naan-pizza (oui, des pizzas sur des naans !), vous comprendrez que j’ai été obligée de tester ! Bon, je pense que cet intitulé de naan-pizza m’avait mis trop de paillettes dans les yeux car j’ai été un peu déçue… Ce n’était pas mauvais du tout, hein, j’avais pris la Green Goddess (avocat, roquette, tomates séchées, jalapeno) et c’était sympa (meilleur roulé, en style wrap, qu’à « plat », j’ai trouvé), mais ça n’a pas révolutionné ma gourmandise. Je vous donne quand même l’adresse, car elle est très bien notée sur Happy Cow, les gens adorent alors… Et puis, c’est très copieux pour pas très cher donc… pourquoi pas ? A noter que vous pouvez aussi y trouver de la cuisine indienne plus classique et des wraps. La majorité de la carte est végétarienne / vegan mais on y trouve aussi des plats à base de saumon. Avec une petite limonade à la rhubarbe, bien sûr… 😊
W – Der Imbiss
Kastanienallee 49 / 10119
http://www.w-derimbiss.de
Il vous reste une petite place pour un dessert ? C’est l’heure de goûter ? Juste à la sortie de Mauerpark, il y a Cookies & Cream et leurs sandwichs glacés ♥ Vous choisissez 2 cookies (moi, j’en ai pris un au beurre de cacahuète et un au chocolat & piment), la glace que vous souhaitez (j’ai pris une glace à la cookie dough, je suis incorrigible…) et hop ! sandwich ! Vous pouvez bien sûr commander simplement un cookie ou une boule de glace. Mais c’est moins rigolo ! 😉
A noter que les toilettes, à l’entrée, sont publiques. Très concrètement, vous pouvez bien sûr les utiliser en tant que client.e, mais aussi si vous passez dans le coin et avez besoin d’utiliser des toilettes, on vous invite simplement, avec un petit écriteau vous expliquant pourquoi, à laisser dans ce cas une petite pièce. Et je trouve ça très bien.
Cookies & Cream
Kremmener St. 8 / 10435 Berlin
https://www.cookiesandcream.berlin
# Du côté de Friedrichschein / Kreuzberg / Neukolln ?
A Kreuzberg, arrêtez-vous à la Markthalle Neun, très jolie halle à l’ancienne où vous trouverez quelques étals de légumes, mais aussi des boulangeries, fromageries, brasseries… et des burgers vegan chez TofuTussis.
Vous pouvez choisir le burger classique (steak végétal, tomate, salade, oignon, cornichon, veganaise, moutarde, ketchup), ou une de ses variantes. Nous avons choisi le Ampelmännchen, du nom des célèbres petits hommes des feux tricolores de Berlin Est, à base d’avocat et de betterave (6,50€).
Pour le dessert, vous pourrez déguster une glace chez Rosa Canina ! Le prix à la boule varie selon les parfums, avec un système d’étoiles (de 1,40 à 1,80€, de mémoire). J’ai testé la glace au matcha, qui est top ! Bien crémeuse, goût matcha très bien dosé : parfaite ♥
Si vous êtes gourmand.e ou si – comme moi – vous êtes prévoyant.e concernant le goûter, je vous invite à découvrir la boulangerie italienne Sironi. Leurs foccacia avaient l’air délicieuses mais on ne peut (malheureusement) pas tout goûter… Par contre, leur croissant à la pistache (« pistacchio brioche ») me donnait vraiment trop envie alors hop ! dans le sac pour plus tard. Bon, ce n’était pas donné (2,60€, quand même) mais que c’était bon ! La crème à la pistache était délicieuse, le croissant croustillant et généreusement garni (« attention à ne pas s’en mettre partout ! », dit la fille qui s’en est mis partout), bref… No regret.
Markthalle Neun
Eisenbahnestr. 42-43 / 10997 Berlin
https://markthalleneun.de
C’est grâce à Rose Citron que j’ai découvert le Prinzessinengärten, jardin communautaire au cœur de Kreuzberg dont j’espère vous parler plus en détails dans un autre article. A l’abri des arbres, sur de grandes tables partagées dans une ambiance de Biergarten, vous pouvez y déguster des pizzas bio à bas prix (5,50€ la Margerita et 7,50€ la « Pizza du Jardin » – en photo ci-dessous) … Un petit moment hors du temps, très agréable.
Prinzessinengarten
Prinzenst. 35-38 / 10969 Berlin
Autant vous le dire tout de suite, je ne garde pas une très bonne image de cette boutique de donuts vegan : nous avions l’impression de déranger alors que nous sommes arrivés à plus d’1h de la fermeture, il ne restait plus qu’une sorte de donut (chocolat blanc – réglisse), l’accueil était très moyen… Alors pourquoi je vous en parle ? Parce que le donut en lui-même était bon, qu’on y trouve des matcha latte, chai latte & cie en version vegan et que, dans les toilettes, des tampons gratuits étaient mis à disposition de celles qui en avaient besoin. Et ça c’est cool ! A noter qu’il existe une autre boutique Potsdamer Platz et j’ai lu beaucoup de bonnes critiques sur Happy Cow donc… testez peut-être l’autre 😊
Brammibal’s donut
Maybachufer 4 / 12047 Berlin
https://www.brammibalsdonuts.com
C’est par hasard, après avoir visité l’East Side Gallery, que nous sommes arrivés dans cette librairie-café et – évidemment – j’ai été charmée par le concept… Déjeuner dans une librairie, n’est-ce pas fabuleux ? Les bagels sont bons (j’avais pris avocat & cream cheese), les brioches à la cannelle aussi, le cookie vegan au chocolat était moins à notre goût, mais dans l’ensemble, c’est un très chouette lieu pour un déjeuner sur le pouce. J’avais pris un petit jus détox aussi (il fallait bien ça haha…), qui avait vraiment le goût du « fait minute ». A noter que, comme vous vous en doutez sûrement à la lecture de son nom, il s’agit d’une librairie anglaise.
Shakespeare & Sons
Warschauer St. 71 / 10243 Berlin
http://www.shakespeareandsons.com
Et voilà ! Il fallait bien marcher 10 à 15 km par jour pour éliminer tout ça, mais je ne regrette rien ! Manger fait tellement partie du plaisir de voyager 😊
N’hésitez pas à me dire si vous essayez un de ces cafés et restaurants durant votre voyage à Berlin, ou si vous les avez déjà testés. Moi, je n’ai qu’une envie, c’est y retourner !
Une dernière chose : entrez dans une épicerie et achetez des Hanuta.
Les Hanuta, c’est la vie ♥
Vous pouvez aussi en acheter pour moi, haha …
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